A merchant's house with thick stone walls and green shutters, restored over two years and changed as little as the building would allow.
Ana Ferrer grew up four streets away and spent fifteen years running hotels in Barcelona before coming back. Tom Whitfield is an architect who had never lived anywhere with more than one season. They bought the house in 2019, from a family who had owned it since it was built.
The renovation took two years, mostly because they insisted on keeping things: the tiled floors, the shutters, the stone sink in the kitchen, and the lemon tree in the courtyard, which is why the corridor takes a strange turn on the ground floor. The turn is worth it.
The kitchen is open before anyone official is awake. Help yourself - the machine is straightforward and there's usually something from the bakery already.
In the courtyard under the fig tree. Bread from Carrer de sa Lluna, fruit from the valley, tomatoes, local cheese, eggs however you'd like them. Included in every rate.
The pool is cold and shaded and mostly empty. Bikes are by the door. Nobody will suggest an activity or ask you about your plans.
A bottle of something local opens in the courtyard most evenings. Entirely optional, and genuinely how half our guests end up having dinner together.
Ana cooks on Tuesdays and Fridays - one long table, one menu, €48 a head. Book at breakfast, because it fills.
Sóller sits in a bowl of orange groves between the mountains and the sea. Most of the good things are within a bike ride.
A wooden tram from 1913 rattles down to Port de Sóller in twenty minutes. Do it once for the novelty, then take the bikes because it's faster.
The GR221 passes above the town. The walk to Deià takes about four hours and ends at a beach worth the descent. We'll pack you a lunch if you ask the night before.
A pebble cove with a restaurant that has no business being that good. Go on a weekday, park badly like everyone else, and stay for the afternoon.
In the main square from eight until one. Come back with more olives than you can eat and something ceramic you'll have to wrap in clothes.
The old road over the pass to Palma is a serious climb with a serious view. Cyclists come from all over Europe for it in February.
Genuinely the most common answer when guests are asked what they did. The courtyard, a book, the pool, repeat.
Ana's actual list, not a sponsored one.
The special-occasion one. Book two days ahead and order the fish.
Ice cream made with valley oranges since 1980. The queue moves quickly.
Where locals actually eat. No menu in English, no need for one, twelve euros for lunch.
Above the port with the whole bay below. Go for the sunset drink rather than dinner.
The Cala Deià restaurant on the rocks. Reserve, or arrive at noon and wait.
May through September books early. The valley in November is a secret worth having.
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